DUBAI: CRUISING THE CREEK ON AN OLD SHIP (6)

Dubai Creek that separates two oldest districts – Deira and Bur Dubai, was actually home to the first inhabitants of this emirate. After Baniyas tribe came from Abu Dhabi, the new ruler at the time Sheikh Maktoum Bin Hashar Al Maktoum allowed various tax concessions for foreign traders at the end of 18th century.

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Taxi-boat going to the other side

Those who thus far traded through Iran and Sharjah were drown to the new port. Even the British trading fleet came to use Dubai as its main port in the region since 1903, making thus a direct link with its partners in British India.

Sheikh Rashed Bin Saed Al Maktoum ordered another novelty for the bay – to widen the Creek and allow large vessels to get into the pier. The city specialized in import-export in time, mostly trading with gold from India, and so, trading became the main business branch that stirred up Dubai’s development.

Wooden dhows for any goods

It is possible to see how those trading vessels are made even today in Al Jada district on the top of the Creek.

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Boats and dhows lined up in the Creek

Ships of all sizes sprouted from these craft shops and they still take all kinds of goods around the world – from spices, gold, home appliances to large cars. Blue ships are lined up along the cost, one after another, with piles of boxes on the cost waiting to be embarked.

Luxury yachts, speedboats, expensive ships are surely to be seen in Dubai’s bay nowadays, but the Creek is still packed with those old wooden vessels.

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Boat station to Bur Dubai

Throughout the Creek small taxi boats are buzzing from shore to shore, taking on-board curious tourists or citizens who live or work on the other side. For few dirhams in ten minutes or so it’s easy to get from Deira to Bur Dubai. Up along the cost there are a lot of anchored ships, made after those old trading dhows, but turned into restaurants. It’s possible to have dinner during a cruise and enjoy a romantic view from the deck for 25 to 70 euros. Keep in mind that you would have to be happy with a view through the ship’s window during summer, since the temperature often doesn’t go below 40, even at nights.

Dehydrated tourists

If you went around the city by the Big Bus, you will be given an opportunity to cruise the Creek for free. There is no better way to feel the atmosphere of its buzzling traffic. What we were not told on the other hand, was that the ship cruised once every hour. An essential fact if you want to go cruising during summer, and here is why.

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Waiting for cruise ship to anchor

The plan was to cool down a bit in the bus until we reach the cruising post. But, when we have arrived, our driver was kind enough to point to the spot where we were supposed to wait for the ship, and than he notified us that „the ship left 15 minutes ago and the next cruise is scheduled in 45“… Sudden silence among those 20 or so tourists, nobody said a word at first. Then they slowly began to come towards each other to ask „if he really said – in 45 minutes?“.

Whitish quay made of concrete, glowing-hot. Short covered passage providing a meter-wide shadow with maybe 10 meters in lenght. There is nobody around, except for this small group of tourists. Totally understandable having in mind that it is almost noon. Those lined up ship-restaurants are all closed. Not one of any kind of store in the area, not one of any object which could have air conditioning unit. Small amounts of water we had disappeared at the first quarter. The second – and tourists set down on that hot whitish concrete, trying to catch that poor shadow. Enthusiasts took couple of photos at the beginning, all the cameras were packed afterwards. And those minutes were dragging, holding still while we were checking the time more often.

Minarets and taxi-boats

And than, finally, the ship comes. Sure, it’s charming. The group rushes up, after all that „stewing“ in the heat.

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Anxious tourists embarking the ship

Nice line was formed, ready to embark, but Arab employees were not in a hurry, as usual. They wait until the ship slowly docks, than they tie it down, two of them leisurely bring out a small bridge which by no means cannot fit the sag it has to… Just when you think it’s over and you are finally going in to have a breath or two, it seems that the previous group is supposed to leave the ship first. Nobody is in a hurry… Marry tourists come out to the quay in front of those sun-burned, red-faced people outside.

But the cruise has eventually started. The ship offers juice, water for about one euro per can or a bottle, ice-cream costs three euros and shawarma (if anyone feels like eating after melting in the sun) from six to eight. It’s pleasantly chilled inside, you promptly hear Arabic music and a guide wishing you welcome and giving the main info about the Creek.

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Creek view from the deck

We have freshened up a bit and went to the open deck (at least it is shaded). Luckily, there is a kind of a breeze that comes sporadically… And than you forget about all those troubles in the sun since the magnificent view of the bay overwhelms you. Trading ships at both cost lines, minarets, taxi-boats zipping by, passengers waving. There, there is that Heritage Village where we plan to go later, and look, there – the narrow way out of the bay into that large one, well known – the Gulf (Arabic or Persian).

Calligraphy exibition

Coming off the ship we were satisfied. Luckily, the Big Bus is already there, waiting for tourists to get off the vessel. We have just smiled to that driver, hoping to get to Sheikh Saed Al Maktoum house soon.

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Sheikh’s House courtyard

When the bus stopped and we were given a ticket to enter the house, we wondered why nobody else is interested in seeing it. We passed by British lady who came back from the house, hopping on the bus and whispering to us that „there is nothing to see“.

We were hoping there would be a toilet on the way. And there it was – gaping doors, colored tiles on the floor and two stretching cats cooling down… Well, maybe it’s not that urgent…

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Chained doors in Sheikh’s House

There are few similar houses in a row, one of them turned into a restaurant. The one we were looking for is totally empty. Nobody at the door to take that ticket at least. Inside, nice small courtyard, tiny wooden doors all around in a circle with signs „push“ hanging on a chain. You push one – chilled small room with inscriptions from the Quran appears. Then you pull that chain back in order to close the door again. Circled passage decorated with pillars, few traditional chairs or an old lantern… The guard appears around the corner, just waves pointing to go upstairs. And than he disappears again. On the first floor a small exhibition with calligraphy explanations compering different writing styles. Oh well, if that was it…

Heritage Village in the open

On the way to the bus station there is one more stop – the Heritage Village praised so often by travel guides for being authentic in style, „where people used to live, work, socialize“. It is in the open, but it would be a pity to miss it.

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Living the old ways, Heritage Village

We enter the village, nobody is there. It seems that the sand is burning, there are those wind towers we have seen in Bastakiya, couple of fireplaces in the open, small houses made of hand-woven twigs… And one „hello“ from behind. Young Arab guy sitting there, guarding the Village, drinking coffee and smoking, seemingly didn’t mind the heat, staring. We ask if we could take couple of photos. He nods, still staring… The sun is still up, it’s unbearable… You know what – a photo or two is just enough. Snap, snap, „thank you“ and we rushed towards the station.

The bus is still not there. Five minutes is like at least 25 in this heat. Your last efforts to breath in, no more water nor shade. And finally the bus, and a driver who is not in a hurry, ever.

Couple of days later we have mentioned to Big Bus guides that we might go to other emirates, Sharjah or Abu Dhabi, and we were told that „heritage villages there are obligatory to visit“ (being in the open as well and all the same?!). We just smiled remembering that lack of air. And like that young Arab from the souk, lying on his pile of sacks – remember him? – we just waved away, thinking: „Don’t understand and don’t care.“

Next: QUICK STOP TO ABU DHABI, THERE LIES THE GRAND MOSQUE (7)

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25 thoughts on “DUBAI: CRUISING THE CREEK ON AN OLD SHIP (6)

  1. I love the contrast between the old and the new. I think riding along one of the ships would be worth it despite the lines, but I will admit… I would probably get rather frustrated standing for a long time! The views from the cruise are astonishing though! 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

    • It was memorable, despite the heat. 😉 You know how it is when you travel – you might never come to the same place again, and therefore, there was no way to miss the cruise even if it meant standing outside in the sun with over 40 degrees. 🙂 Thanks Kallsy!

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  2. I have been to Dubai 3 times now and have been on several boats on the creek. I like the taxi boats especially because it’s not just for tourists. Dubai is a fascinating place… the better I get to know it the more I seem to appreciate it for what it is.

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  3. I would LOVE to cruise down the creek on one of those old ships – but I’ll be sure to time it to avoid a 45 min wait, thanks for the tip! I love all the details offered about the history of a city we tend to only hear about as so advanced and almost futuristic. Thanks for sharing your insight!

    Liked by 1 person

    • To tell you the truth – all I could find and read about Dubai before I went there were those glamour-city-facts. That’s why I’ve decided to write about it, but – as it is, full of contrasts. 😉 Thank you so much for visiting!

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  4. Pingback: DUBAI: IRANIAN MOSQUE IN MIDST OF ARABIC HAGGLING (5) | Glimpses of The World

  5. Cool! I remember going on the creek back in 2001 but unfortunately not on the old ship – that would add loads of character. I remember going to the golf club for drink and overlooked the water. A fun city – I preferred Muscat but still a good city.

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  6. This is quite a different aspect of Dubai that I have never known of. I also like the way you described people’s behaviour that you observed 🙂 Thanks for sharing!

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  7. I just read something different from the others posts about Dubai!! I can appreciate your different way to see this incredible and keep-changing city!! A friend of mine is living there and well, he doesn’t like it! Anyway I will be a chance to visit him and obviously the city too! Thanks for sharing it

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    • If you’re planing to go, check out the other stories on Dubai on my blog. 😉 And I know what you mean, I know few people who live and work there as well – the same story! Thank you, it’s really pleasant to have such nice response to my post! 🙂

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  8. wow huge difference between the New Dubai and the old one. I’ve never been to Dubai and for me it was like all new I have never imagined the old one. Great post thank you for sharing

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  9. thank you for that detailed description, it was nice to read something different about Dubai than huge skyscrapers 🙂 and yep, heat can be quite discouraging, I was travelling like this in Greece, city tours were every 15 minutes disturbed by stopping in the nearby shop to buy cold water 😀

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  10. Nice post about a different side to Dubai you don’t normally read about. It’s always modern this, amazing that, it’s good to have some contrast. I understand your frustrations with the heat and the waiting time, but then again, when it goes wrong that’s what creates the stories right!

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  11. Loved that part of the city with the souks. I’ve cross in one of those small boats and didn’t have the chance for a cruise, but would have love to. It’s a contrasting place and besides the wow factor of the modern Dubai, I found this more real.

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