Serbia: UNFAMILIAR FACE IN A SMALL TOWN (15)

As I was told, down the same street where the Green Wreath hotel was, there was the only working restaurant I could eat in. It was more like a fast food stand, small, with glass case, grill in the corner, three tables outdoors and few inside. But they said the food was „the best in … Continue reading Serbia: UNFAMILIAR FACE IN A SMALL TOWN (15)

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Srbija: NEPOZNATO LICE U MALOM GRADU (15)

Niz istu ulicu u kojoj se nalazio „Zeleni venac“, kako mi rekoše, naći ću i jedini restoran koji u Ljuboviji radi. Više je, doduše, ličio na kiosk brze hrane, mali, sa staklenom vitrinom, roštiljem u ćošku, tri stola napolju i dva unutra. Ali, rekli su mi da je hrana „najbolja u gradu“. „Bolje je da … Continue reading Srbija: NEPOZNATO LICE U MALOM GRADU (15)

Serbia: LAVISH NATURE ALONG THE RIVER (14)

When you go further towards the town of Mali Zvornik, that is when the river Drina starts to appear here and there. The road was obviously patched numerous times, making my French “lion” jounce. When you enter Mali Zvornik you begin to enjoy the view on your right. It seems as if town’s buildings are … Continue reading Serbia: LAVISH NATURE ALONG THE RIVER (14)

Srbija: IZDAŠNA PRIRODA DUŽ REKE (14)

Kad se malo udaljite magistralom prema Malom Zvorniku, počne da se promalja i Drina koju već kilometrima čekamo. Put loš, krpljen, trucka auto, ali nekako "kotrljate". Tek kad uđete u Mali Zvornik zapravo počnete da uživate u pogledu. Ovaj gradić kao da se stropoštava sa obale u reku, a preko puta, na bosanskoj strani, isto … Continue reading Srbija: IZDAŠNA PRIRODA DUŽ REKE (14)

Serbia: THE GREEN WREATH, AGAIN? (13)

When arriving to Ljubovija town after short stop to Banja Koviljaca, the main thing to do was to find a place to stay. We were on the road all day long, tired of driving, of that rain drizzling along the way. The town was small and we did read about a “big old hotel” that was … Continue reading Serbia: THE GREEN WREATH, AGAIN? (13)

Srbija: ZELENI VENAC, JOŠ JEDAN?! (13)

Kad sam posle Banje Koviljače stigla u Ljuboviju, prvo sam tražila smeštaj. Čitav dan sam bila na putu, već umorna i od vožnje i kišice, koja je promicala usput. Grad je bio mali, a sećam se da sam ranije čitala o „starom, velikom hotelu“ koji je zatvoren godinama. Pa, naleteću već na nešto... I upravo … Continue reading Srbija: ZELENI VENAC, JOŠ JEDAN?! (13)

Serbia: WHERE HAS DRINA RIVER DISAPPEARED?! (12)

We got lost a bit, again, choosing „shortcuts“ rather than the regular road. It seems that Andrew Archibald Paton’s path wasn’t that clear either, even though he was „cruising“ the 19th century land on a horse. But he was surely astonished by the view of nature approaching Loznica: „Thick turf covered the pasture lands; the … Continue reading Serbia: WHERE HAS DRINA RIVER DISAPPEARED?! (12)

Srbija: GDE JE NESTALA DRINA?! (12)

Ponovo smo se malo "izgubili", jer smo krenuli "prečicom" umesto redovnom magistralom. No, put izgleda nije bio "prohodan" ni britanskom diplomati Endruu Arčibaldu Pejtonu koji je polovinom 19. veka na konju obilazio našu zemlju. Ali, svakako je bio oduševljen prizorom na prilazu Loznici: "Debelo busenje pokrivalo je pašnjake, stari hrast i nežne mladice unosili su … Continue reading Srbija: GDE JE NESTALA DRINA?! (12)

Serbia: SPA THAT HEALS, AGAINST ALL THE ODDS (11)

Wanted to visit Banja Koviljacha spa center, and this is a short reminder of a legend regarding the place - before we go through Loznica town in the next Glimpse and before we actually reach Banja Koviljacha. At the time of our journey, Serbian government has already established the Asylum Center (in 2008) in Banja … Continue reading Serbia: SPA THAT HEALS, AGAINST ALL THE ODDS (11)

Srbija: BANJA KOJA LEČI, UPRKOS SVEMU (11)

Isplanirala sam da posetim i Banju Koviljaču, a ovo je mala digresija pre sledećeg teksta kojim idemo kroz Loznicu do ove Banje. U vreme mog putovanja, srpske vlasti su već bile osnovale Centar za izbeglice (još 2008. godine) u Banji Koviljači. Država se zavetovala da će prihvatiti buduće tražioce azila. Niko tada još nije mogao … Continue reading Srbija: BANJA KOJA LEČI, UPRKOS SVEMU (11)

Serbia: SAINTS WITH CRIMSON FACES (10)

„Officer persuaded me to take a Highland ramble into the Gutchevo range, and first visit Tronosha... Ascending rapidly, we were soon lost in the woods, catching only now and then a view of the golden plain through the dark green oaks and pines. For full three hours our brilliant little party dashed up hill and … Continue reading Serbia: SAINTS WITH CRIMSON FACES (10)

Srbija: SVECI GRIMIZNIH LICA U TRONOŠI (10)

"Načelnik me ubedi da napravimo izlet u planinu Gučevo, i da najpre posetimo Tronošu. Peli smo se brzo i uskoro se izgubismo u šumama, a kroz tamnozelene hrastove i borove šume smo samo povremeno videli zlatnu ravnicu. Naše izvanredno društvance je jurilo uzbrdo i niz male udoline, kroz veličanstvene šume, dok ne dođosmo na vis … Continue reading Srbija: SVECI GRIMIZNIH LICA U TRONOŠI (10)

Serbia: THROUGH THE CORN FIELD? (9)

On our way from Kaona Monastery, we didn’t go to the main road from Trshic village, since the town of Loznica iz only seven kilometers away – following some „shortcut“. But, what we didn’t know is that this road section was at the time utterly unusable. A lot of dirt, or sand was it? It … Continue reading Serbia: THROUGH THE CORN FIELD? (9)

Srbija: KROZ KUKURUZNO POLJE? (9)

Na putu od Kaone, nisam išla glavnim putem prema Tršiću, pošto je Loznica odavde na samo sedam kilometara, i to „prečicom“. Ali, ono što nisam znala jeste da je jedan deo puta u to vreme bio potpuno neupotrebljiv. Puno prašine, peska, šta li... Radovi na putu! Jedan nestrpljivi auto sa beogradskim tablicama je projurio pored … Continue reading Srbija: KROZ KUKURUZNO POLJE? (9)

Serbia: MONASTERY ERECTED BY OBILIC’S SISTER (8)

„Through the richest land, forming part of the ancient banat of Matchva, which was in the earlier periods of Servian and Hungarian history so often a source of conflict and contention, we approached distant grey hills, which gradually rose from the horizon, and, losing their indistinctness, revealed a chain so charmingly accidented, that I quickened … Continue reading Serbia: MONASTERY ERECTED BY OBILIC’S SISTER (8)

Srbija: MANASTIR KOJI JE PODIGLA OBILIĆEVA SESTRA (8)

"Kroz najbogatiji kraj, koji čini deo nekadašnjeg Mačvanskog banata - koji je u ranijim periodima srpske i mađarske istorije mnogo puta bio izvor sukoba i sporenja - približismo se dalekim sivim brdima, koja su se postupno dizala sa horizonta i, gubeći svoje nerazgovetne oblike, otkrila lanac tako divotno neravan, da ubrzah korak, kao da ću … Continue reading Srbija: MANASTIR KOJI JE PODIGLA OBILIĆEVA SESTRA (8)

Serbia: DO NOT DISTURB SLEEPING DUCKS! (7)

Even though our British diplomat didn’t get the chance to go to Kaona hill on the way to Loznica town, hidden by the forest and that curvy road that goes up and down, we were advised to make a quick stop to the Kaona Monastery. “Serene place”, they said, “beautiful temple in the middle of … Continue reading Serbia: DO NOT DISTURB SLEEPING DUCKS! (7)

Srbija: NE BUDITE ŽIVINU! (7)

Iako naš britanski diplomata nije posetio Kaonu na putu za Loznicu, skrivenu šumom i krivudavim putem koji vijuga gore-dole, nama su savetovali da obavezno svratimo do manastira. „Mirno mesto“, rekli su nam, „divan hram usred proplanka u šumi“. To mi je bilo dovoljno! Manastir je osnovan u 14. veku, a prva crkva je ovde izgrađena … Continue reading Srbija: NE BUDITE ŽIVINU! (7)

Serbia: FORTRESS OVERLOOKING SAVA RIVER (6)

On our way towards the Sava river, we passed by small craft stores and there were railway tracks as we were told (an old small train just went by!), and then the small intersection. It's not possible to go to the shore just like that because there is no paved river bank. You don’t even … Continue reading Serbia: FORTRESS OVERLOOKING SAVA RIVER (6)

Srbija: TVRĐAVA NA OBALI SAVE (6)

Krenemo ranom zorom prema Savi, a usput šabačke zanatske radnjice, pa stvarno pruga (prođe i šinobus!), pa neka raskrsnica. Baš kako nam je objasnio saobraćajac! Začudilo nas je što ne možete bilo gde da izađete do reke, jer nema urađenog keja, nego je obala "rasparčana" tako da na pojedinim mestima od rastinja ne biste ni … Continue reading Srbija: TVRĐAVA NA OBALI SAVE (6)