Serbia: NO TURKISH COFFEE IN BAIR?! (5)

Different influences are still to be seen in Shabac: downtown area has an old Austria-Hungarian charm, while small streets towards Sava river kept the feel of the Orient. The town was under the rule of both throughout history. There on Sava bank, there lies the famous fortress. It dates back to the 15th century when … Continue reading Serbia: NO TURKISH COFFEE IN BAIR?! (5)

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Srbija: NA BAIRU NEMA TURSKE KAFE?! (5)

I dalje se mogu videti različiti uticaji kultura u Šapcu – u centru preovladava šarm austrougarskih građevina, dok su male ulice prema Savi zadržale „šmek“ Orijenta. Grad je bio pod vladavinom oba carstva kroz istoriju. Na obali Save nalazi se čuvena tvrđava, sagrađena u 15. veku kada su ovu oblast Turci držali pod svojom kontrolom. … Continue reading Srbija: NA BAIRU NEMA TURSKE KAFE?! (5)

Serbia: THE FIRST PIANO AND GLASSED WINDOWS (4)

„Surrendering our horses to the care of the khan keeper, I proceeded to the konak, or government house, to present my letters. This proved to be a large building, in the style of Constantinople, which, with its line of bow windows, and kiosk-fashioned rooms, surmounted with projecting roofs, might have passed muster on the Bosphorus. … Continue reading Serbia: THE FIRST PIANO AND GLASSED WINDOWS (4)

Srbija: PRVI KLAVIR I STAKLA NA PROZORIMA (4)

"Produžio sam do konaka ili državne zgrade, da predam svoja pisma. Bila je to velika zgrada građena u carigradskom stilu, koja bi svojim polukružnim prozorima i orijentalnim sobama mogla da zadovolji i na Bosforu. Kada sam ušao, uvedoše me u kancelariju pomoćnika načelnika. Na prvi pogled mogao sam da pomislim da se nalazim u nekoj … Continue reading Srbija: PRVI KLAVIR I STAKLA NA PROZORIMA (4)

Serbia: GETTING LOST IN YOUR OWN COUNTRY (3)

So, let me just take a quick break here and tell you what happened on my way to Shabac, a town less than 90 kilometers to the west from Belgrade. I was driving and aware that I should be passing by another town by the name of Obrenovac. It’s almost a “straight line” on the … Continue reading Serbia: GETTING LOST IN YOUR OWN COUNTRY (3)

Srbija: KAD SE IZGUBITE U ROĐENOJ ZEMLJI (3)

Tako je moje putovanje počelo. Pravac Šabac, na nepunih 90 kilometara zapadno od Beograda. Trebalo bi da prođem pored Obrenovca. U svakom slučaju, put vodi “pravo”, nema nekih velikih skretanja i u Šapcu bi trebalo da sam za nešto malo jače od jednog sata. Taman dovoljno vremena da unapred napravim plan. Moj britanski saputnik je … Continue reading Srbija: KAD SE IZGUBITE U ROĐENOJ ZEMLJI (3)

Serbia: PLAYING POOL IN TURKISH CLOTHES (2)

“As if those small birds have sung to me: ‘Go ahead, traveler! Travel your fatherland! Sure it is small, but it’s also more magnificent than any large empire. The soil you are stepping on – it is not the earth, it is the soil soaked in blood of your fathers and ancestors, since only the … Continue reading Serbia: PLAYING POOL IN TURKISH CLOTHES (2)

Srbija: BILIJAR U TURSKOJ ODEĆI (2)

„Kao da su mi pevale one male tice: 'Putuj, putniče! Putuj po ovoj tvojoj otadžbini! Mala je ona, ali je veličanstvenija od najvećih carevina. To što gaziš nije samo zemlja, to je krv tvojih dedova i pradedova, njom je ona orošena. Jer, samo iz krvi može da udari ovaka bujina!'", napisao je Janko Veselinović 1891. … Continue reading Srbija: BILIJAR U TURSKOJ ODEĆI (2)

Serbia: FOLLOWING BRITON THROUGH SERBIA (1)

The first idea for this trip came from Andrew Archibald Paton, the 19th century British diplomat, whose book I was fortunate to stumbled upon in a local library one day. He was travelling through "Turkish lands" that, in those days, included vast parts of Serbia, still struggling with feeble Ottoman Empire. Mr Paton went from … Continue reading Serbia: FOLLOWING BRITON THROUGH SERBIA (1)

Srbija: STOPAMA BRITANCA KROZ SRBIJU (1)

Ideju za ovo putovanje mi je zapravo dao Endrju Arčibald Pejton, britanski diplomata 19. veka, na čiju sam knjigu slučajno nabasala jednog od tih dana u biblioteci. On je putovao kroz “turske zemlje”, što je tada bio i veliki deo Srbije koja se i dalje borila sa oslabljenim Otomanskim carstvom. Pejton je išao od Beograda … Continue reading Srbija: STOPAMA BRITANCA KROZ SRBIJU (1)

Off to 19th-century SERBIA!

British diplomat traveled through Balkans and Serbia in the middle of the 19th century and wrote a book about it. Now, two centuries later, I will let him escort me on my journey - through my own country! Read more about it in the Glimpses of the 19th-century Serbia special series! (All the links to anecdotes and stories … Continue reading Off to 19th-century SERBIA!