Serbia: WOMAN BEHIND THE WHEEL, IN A TWILIGHT ZONE (17)

I just have to add one more anecdote from Bajina Basta, and with it we will end this series of the 19th-century Serbia seen through the eyes of the former British diplomat who wrote the book about his trip, and my own - almost two centuries later. Here's how the story goes. „Where can I … Continue reading Serbia: WOMAN BEHIND THE WHEEL, IN A TWILIGHT ZONE (17)

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Serbia: SMALL „LUXURIES“ UNKNOWN TO EUROPE (16)

The river Drina can be seen sporadically coming from Rogachica village towards Bajina Bashta town. Hidden by lush bushes and linden trees, it pops out to prance a bit and then it moves out of sight again. You can turn left from Rogachica towards the town of Valjevo, or right to Bajina Bashta. One way … Continue reading Serbia: SMALL „LUXURIES“ UNKNOWN TO EUROPE (16)

Serbia: UNFAMILIAR FACE IN A SMALL TOWN (15)

As I was told, down the same street where the Green Wreath hotel was, there was the only working restaurant I could eat in. It was more like a fast food stand, small, with glass case, grill in the corner, three tables outdoors and few inside. But they said the food was „the best in … Continue reading Serbia: UNFAMILIAR FACE IN A SMALL TOWN (15)

Serbia: LAVISH NATURE ALONG THE RIVER (14)

When you go further towards the town of Mali Zvornik, that is when the river Drina starts to appear here and there. The road was obviously patched numerous times, making my French “lion” jounce. When you enter Mali Zvornik you begin to enjoy the view on your right. It seems as if town’s buildings are … Continue reading Serbia: LAVISH NATURE ALONG THE RIVER (14)

Serbia: THE GREEN WREATH, AGAIN? (13)

When arriving to Ljubovija town after short stop to Banja Koviljaca, the main thing to do was to find a place to stay. We were on the road all day long, tired of driving, of that rain drizzling along the way. The town was small and we did read about a “big old hotel” that was … Continue reading Serbia: THE GREEN WREATH, AGAIN? (13)

Serbia: WHERE HAS DRINA RIVER DISAPPEARED?! (12)

We got lost a bit, again, choosing „shortcuts“ rather than the regular road. It seems that Andrew Archibald Paton’s path wasn’t that clear either, even though he was „cruising“ the 19th century land on a horse. But he was surely astonished by the view of nature approaching Loznica: „Thick turf covered the pasture lands; the … Continue reading Serbia: WHERE HAS DRINA RIVER DISAPPEARED?! (12)

Serbia: SPA THAT HEALS, AGAINST ALL THE ODDS (11)

Wanted to visit Banja Koviljacha spa center, and this is a short reminder of a legend regarding the place - before we go through Loznica town in the next Glimpse and before we actually reach Banja Koviljacha. At the time of our journey, Serbian government has already established the Asylum Center (in 2008) in Banja … Continue reading Serbia: SPA THAT HEALS, AGAINST ALL THE ODDS (11)

Serbia: SAINTS WITH CRIMSON FACES (10)

„Officer persuaded me to take a Highland ramble into the Gutchevo range, and first visit Tronosha... Ascending rapidly, we were soon lost in the woods, catching only now and then a view of the golden plain through the dark green oaks and pines. For full three hours our brilliant little party dashed up hill and … Continue reading Serbia: SAINTS WITH CRIMSON FACES (10)

Serbia: THROUGH THE CORN FIELD? (9)

On our way from Kaona Monastery, we didn’t go to the main road from Trshic village, since the town of Loznica iz only seven kilometers away – following some „shortcut“. But, what we didn’t know is that this road section was at the time utterly unusable. A lot of dirt, or sand was it? It … Continue reading Serbia: THROUGH THE CORN FIELD? (9)

Serbia: MONASTERY ERECTED BY OBILIC’S SISTER (8)

„Through the richest land, forming part of the ancient banat of Matchva, which was in the earlier periods of Servian and Hungarian history so often a source of conflict and contention, we approached distant grey hills, which gradually rose from the horizon, and, losing their indistinctness, revealed a chain so charmingly accidented, that I quickened … Continue reading Serbia: MONASTERY ERECTED BY OBILIC’S SISTER (8)

Serbia: DO NOT DISTURB SLEEPING DUCKS! (7)

Even though our British diplomat didn’t get the chance to go to Kaona hill on the way to Loznica town, hidden by the forest and that curvy road that goes up and down, we were advised to make a quick stop to the Kaona Monastery. “Serene place”, they said, “beautiful temple in the middle of … Continue reading Serbia: DO NOT DISTURB SLEEPING DUCKS! (7)

Serbia: FORTRESS OVERLOOKING SAVA RIVER (6)

On our way towards the Sava river, we passed by small craft stores and there were railway tracks as we were told (an old small train just went by!), and then the small intersection. It's not possible to go to the shore just like that because there is no paved river bank. You don’t even … Continue reading Serbia: FORTRESS OVERLOOKING SAVA RIVER (6)

Serbia: NO TURKISH COFFEE IN BAIR?! (5)

Different influences are still to be seen in Shabac: downtown area has an old Austria-Hungarian charm, while small streets towards Sava river kept the feel of the Orient. The town was under the rule of both throughout history. There on Sava bank, there lies the famous fortress. It dates back to the 15th century when … Continue reading Serbia: NO TURKISH COFFEE IN BAIR?! (5)

Serbia: THE FIRST PIANO AND GLASSED WINDOWS (4)

„Surrendering our horses to the care of the khan keeper, I proceeded to the konak, or government house, to present my letters. This proved to be a large building, in the style of Constantinople, which, with its line of bow windows, and kiosk-fashioned rooms, surmounted with projecting roofs, might have passed muster on the Bosphorus. … Continue reading Serbia: THE FIRST PIANO AND GLASSED WINDOWS (4)

Serbia: GETTING LOST IN YOUR OWN COUNTRY (3)

So, let me just take a quick break here and tell you what happened on my way to Shabac, a town less than 90 kilometers to the west from Belgrade. I was driving and aware that I should be passing by another town by the name of Obrenovac. It’s almost a “straight line” on the … Continue reading Serbia: GETTING LOST IN YOUR OWN COUNTRY (3)

Serbia: PLAYING POOL IN TURKISH CLOTHES (2)

“As if those small birds have sung to me: ‘Go ahead, traveler! Travel your fatherland! Sure it is small, but it’s also more magnificent than any large empire. The soil you are stepping on – it is not the earth, it is the soil soaked in blood of your fathers and ancestors, since only the … Continue reading Serbia: PLAYING POOL IN TURKISH CLOTHES (2)

Serbia: FOLLOWING BRITON THROUGH SERBIA (1)

The first idea for this trip came from Andrew Archibald Paton, the 19th century British diplomat, whose book I was fortunate to stumbled upon in a local library one day. He was travelling through "Turkish lands" that, in those days, included vast parts of Serbia, still struggling with feeble Ottoman Empire. Mr Paton went from … Continue reading Serbia: FOLLOWING BRITON THROUGH SERBIA (1)

Off to 19th-century SERBIA!

British diplomat traveled through Balkans and Serbia in the middle of the 19th century and wrote a book about it. Now, two centuries later, I will let him escort me on my journey - through my own country! Read more about it in the Glimpses of the 19th-century Serbia special series! (All the links to anecdotes and stories … Continue reading Off to 19th-century SERBIA!